Monday, January 5, 2015

Thailand: Bangkok, Floating Markets & Ayutthaya

We landed in Bangkok and got to our apartment without much fuss, it was already pretty late and our driver didn't speak any english so we opted for a silent journey to our apartment. Once we got checked in we headed out for some semi-sketchy street food and 7-11 cuisine! Not the welcome meal I would have expected but the microwave ham and cheese sandwich was pretty amazing. It's interesting what being deprived of something can do to a person ;-)

The following morning we meet our guide, Ms. Pary, in the lobby and started our adventure. We headed to the flower market first and explored. We enjoyed some wonderful street food, fresh coffee with cream, coconut pancakes and much more! Then we headed off on our first tuk-tuk ride.
Flower market where locals come and buy flowers for offering at the temples 

Our first tuk-tuk ride - I'm pretty sure this was on my parenting list of "I will nevers" 


You can tell my mini-adventurer loved it! 
Our tuk-tuk took us to the Grand Palace which houses multiple temples along with burial sites and was the official residence of the Kings until 1925. Even now it is used for ceremonial events. It was a different kind of beautiful then I have seen before. It undergoes major renovations every ten years to assure nothing looks worn but the style stays the same. It was an indescribable feeling to walk under the entryway and see the palace structures around you guarded by 30 foot demon statues. It was breathtaking. Ms. Pary was amazing about giving us the history and helping us appreciate the area even more. We even got a treat when Ms. Pary spotted Ms. Thailand and grabbed Maddy for a photo-op!
Entrance to the Grand Palace 

Demon of the demons, Ravana, guarding the temples 


White monkey Hanuman, Ramayana murals - traditional Thai murals telling the ancient story of good over evil.

Emerald Buddha Chapel, Garuda birds holding snakes  
Ms. Thailand and Ms. teen Thailand 

After the grand palace we had a delicious Thai lunch at a little seaside cafe, seriously best meal of the trip! Complete with an amazing dessert of Thai Taro Balls in Sweet Coconut Cream, AMAZING! Then we headed to Wat Pho to see the reclining buddha and birthplace of massage. Here we got to see worshippers bringing offerings to the buddha statues. They bring three incense sticks (one to represent Buddha, Buddhist community and teachings of Buddha), a flower (orchid or lotus, symbol of Buddhism) and a small candle (symbolizes enlightenment). They also cover the Buddha statue with golden leaves. -Which was very troublesome when we first saw it because we thought they were trying to peel the gold off the Buddha statue! It was wonderful to be able to watch such different practices to what we are used to and have someone with us to help explain it.
Traditional Buddhist offerings

Reclining Buddha - story is that the buddha got these symbols on his feet as a child

Maddy working on her karma bank, she's is pretty certain buddhism is what she believes in her heart


They were having an event hosted by Chang beer (irony?) and we got to hear the monks chanting

For our final adventure of the afternoon we headed out on a long boat ride through the canals and onto the open water. The pier near Wat Pho had a lot more tremulous water then I thought, it was scary to step down into our tiny boat but luckily the Taksin pier was a lot smoother. The ride was nice and we got to see the gates how the regulate the water level, old houses built on the water that our now banned and ended up in Chao Phraya River with huge freight liners, it was intimidating!
Temple of Dawn in front of us as we start our longboat journey

Random monks getting their first haircuts! 

The Chao Phraya River makes you feel small in a little longboat!

We got off at the Taksin pier and Ms. Pary took us to a Thai bookstore so I could get my book for Maddy about the country. She also guided us to where we could buy some great groceries. We decided after a busy day out we would do dinner in. We found pork chops and Moscato and my evening was complete!

The following morning we headed out for a full day food tour visiting multiple different types of markets including three floating markets where vendors sell food right off their boats, a coconut sugar 'factory' and a market that is on the railroad tracks. We ate some really interesting food and I learned the valuable lesson that if a thai native tells you it's not spicy you probably shouldn't trust them. We tried new fruits: Jackfruit, Durian (which was delicious and tasted like mango although Trey wouldn't try it because of the smell), rose Apple, Rambutan, jujube, star fruit and dragon fruit. My favorite item was some delicious coconut ice cream served over rice!

The first market we visited was the most authentic, the lady made our breakfast right on her boat! We were in a small group of 8 and enjoyed sitting together and sharing breakfast. After our breakfast we got on a longboat and headed through the canals to a local 'factory' that is run by a family that makes coconut palm sugar. We got to tour the coconut farm and learn about the process.

All the locals bringing their goods to the market for the morning 

Our breakfast 
Our long boat journey on the canal 
View of the whole market from a bridge


How they boil down the coconut flower syrup to get the sugar

This family has run this factory by hand for 3 generations 

Maddy with her kazoo the guide made her from a coconut leaf
For lunch we headed to a different floating market that was a little bigger. We also visiting a Buddhist temple that is covered in vines. At this market we got treated to mini-massages and even maddy got in on the action! Of course the ladies loved maddy. 

This market had some vendors selling from their boat but most were selling from shops on the water

Maddy resting after her massage

enjoying my massage

Buddhist temple abandoned and the vines grew around it, now reopened.
Next stop was to the Railroad Market, it's a market that is on the railroad tracks. The train runs up to 8 times a day for over 30 years. The vendors have around 3 min to tear down their tents before the train comes through. All the low items they leave down and the train goes over them. We were lucky and actually got to be there while the train came through. What an awesome experience.

scenes from the market, very busy and narrow area to walk while shopping

most the carts are on wheels so they just pull them back and take down their tarps

once the bell chimes that the train is approaching people start going into rapid mode putting things away

Here comes the train!

never thought I'd be that close to a train let alone in the middle of a market in Thailand

within a minute of the train passing it's back to business as usual as the awnings go back up and carts are pulled out

Our final stop for the food tour was to one of the largest and most famous floating markets, although it was more crowded and touristy. Although this is where I was able to find my 'big size' elephant pants and maddy a couple toys. We enjoyed a family style dinner and some spicy squid soup along with stuffed fish and more ridiculously delicious and spicy foods. Overall it was a wonderful day filled with new experiences.

The fish we enjoyed for dinner

maddys puple orchid juice 



We met up with Ms. Pary again to tour Ayutthaya, which is the previous capital that was attacked and burned. It has beautiful ruins of multiple Buddhist temples. We visited multiple temples and Buddha statues. It was an educational day learning some of the history of the area along with being able to chat with Ms. Pary about Buddhism. She is a very devout buddhist and it was insightful to discuss her faith with her. 

This temple represents the different spiritual plains and Mount Sumeru, the gods mountain in the middle

during the invasion of the capital most the buddha statues were beheaded and the temples were burned 

Maddy and I enjoyed the climb to the top of this temple


Wat Chaiwatthanaram 

Wat Lokayasutharam, large reclining Buddha

Maddy found a random hole to sneak in!


Buddha statue that the trees grew around 

Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, old capital temple 

buddha statue remade from all the broken pieces of multiple buddha images

Buddhist temple commissioned after the King's first visit to Europe, stain glass windows and everything

Maddy getting blessed by the Monk, her little Buddhist self loved it

Family blessing by monk


Our final day in Bangkok we hung around the apartment and recuperated! I headed out that afternoon for a traditional Thai massage and that was quite an experience! The only words the lady knew were "no pain, no good" as she bent me like a pretzel. I was a little nervous that it was two hours long when she was elbowing my inner thigh. But by the end I decided it was worth it and it felt great the next day (albeit a little sore). We headed out for some street food for the evening and got to experience some of the thai nightlife, it was a bit overwhelming. Thailand just isn't like any other place we've ever been to with the masses of people and the feeling of being so lost. It was quite the humbling experience. We ended up finding some good street food and heading back to finish our lazy day in our apartment. 




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